Reinterpretation of a Classic
In 2022, Seiko brought back a classic from its archives with a stunning reinterpretation of the 6105-8000, a model that first made waves in 1968 and later evolved into the asymmetrical “Captain Willard” design of 1970.
This homage to an oft-overlooked dive watch stands out for its thoughtful updates.
Among these, a newly crafted round date window now sits between the 4 and 5 o’clock markers, allowing for a more cohesive dial layout that maintains all twelve hour markers.
At a mere 12.3 mm in thickness, it claims the title of the slimmest diver in Seiko’s lineup.
Water resistance has also improved, now rated at an impressive 200 meters, while a screw-down crown adds extra protection for underwater adventures.
A single-directional bezel, reminiscent of its predecessor with its familiar coin-edge pattern, now clicks 120 times, offering a satisfying tactile experience.
Limited Edition SPB333
When Seiko first launched this “slim turtle” diver in 2022, they introduced three initial variants.
The most affordable of the trio, the SPB317, is dressed in a classic black dial with white markers and comes paired with a black silicone strap for just $900, closely echoing the original design with its iconic red-tipped seconds hand.
The SPB315 takes a step up in elegance with a black dial accented in rose gold, and it’s fitted with a polished five-row stainless steel bracelet and a folding clasp.
The most modern take in this collection, the SPB313, also features the five-row bracelet but opts for a sleek white dial.
In December of the same year, Seiko introduced the limited edition SPB333, capping production at 5,000 individually numbered pieces.
A portion of the sales proceeds champions marine conservation, aligning with Seiko’s “Save the Ocean” initiative.
Drawing on the adventurous spirit of Japanese expeditions from the 1960s and 1970s—which often relied on Seiko watches during their explorations of glaciers—this model highlights a unique textured dial.
It features a gray bezel insert with engraved markings and a distinct texture that brings to mind the grooves of vinyl records.
The blue seconds hand, enhanced solely with Lumibrite, ensures visibility even in dim conditions.
Additionally, the SPB333 comes with a robust five-row stainless-steel bracelet and includes a bonus strap woven from recycled plastic bottles using traditional Japanese techniques known as “Seichu.” This strap stands out for its enhanced thickness and durability when compared to standard NATO straps.
Specifications and Collectibility
Both the case and bracelet benefit from a superhard coating, enhancing scratch resistance and longevity.
The caseback remains consistent with Seiko’s dive models, showcasing its signature wave logo.
Tucked inside the SPB333 is the 6R35 in-house caliber, echoing a familiar 3-Hz operating frequency similar to the 1968 original.
This modern movement not only features hacking seconds and manual winding but also boasts a generous power reserve of 70 hours, even though its accuracy rating is somewhat broad at “+25 to -15 seconds a day.”
The SPB333 is part of a limited collection celebrating the 110th anniversary of Seiko’s first wristwatch, the Laurel, introduced around 1913 as Japan’s first wristwatch, while the brand’s inaugural timepiece named “Seiko” followed in 1924.
In tandem with this release, Seiko also announced a limited reissue of the Laurel (model SPB359), limited to just 2,500 pieces and priced at $1,800.
With a retail price of $1,300, the SPB333 emerges as the priciest of the quartet released alongside it.
Yet, it delivers substantial value to anyone in search of a dive watch fitted with an in-house movement, alongside a strikingly designed dial and hands.
This model successfully marries contemporary style with vintage allure.
Textured dials are gaining traction across the industry, as seen with the much-acclaimed SLGH005G “White Birch” from Grand Seiko.
While the limited nature of the SPB333 might cause unease for some collectors, it’s anticipated to be accessible given the quantity produced.
Some enthusiasts may favor the traditional 3 o’clock date display or shy away from ornate elements on practical timepieces; however, the SPB333’s new date window, complemented by a coordinating date disk, delivers a minimalist aesthetic that rivals a no-date option, despite its slightly smaller font size.
Measuring 41 mm in diameter and spanning a lug-to-lug distance of 46.9 mm, the SPB333’s slender profile is suitable for a wide range of wrist sizes.
The crown’s positioning at 4 o’clock also enhances comfort, honoring the design cues of its 1968 antecedent.
With four diverse models in the lineup, collectors are sure to find one that aligns with their personal style.
The drilled lugs offer easy customization, allowing for a variety of strap options.
Ultimately, the choice lies between the modern SPB333 and SPB313, or the more classically inspired SPB317 and SPB315.
Regardless of personal preference, Seiko’s reimagining of the 6105-8000 undoubtedly stands out as a noteworthy addition to their anniversary collection.
Source: Watchtime